I had planned a trip to the Dolomites for September 2020, with nine people coming from three countries., As Covid spread it became obvious that this was not a good idea, and gradually people dropped out and reservations were cancelled (mostly with full refunds). Many people went on trips in their own country. I contemplated hiking in the Canadian Rockies, but it seemed that if I did that I would be travelling, hiking and dining alone. Would that be worthwhile? Would the incidence of Covid in Ontario and Alberta make it reasonable to fly to Calgary, rent a car and stay in hotels?

Eventually, I developed a list of potential hikes (thanks to the 10 Adventures web site). It worked out that I could get a direct flight from Toronto to Calgary for about $400, accommodation would be $100 a night, and car rental $250.

I took the plunge, made the bookings for a ten-day trip, and worked the Internet to see if I could find local hikers willing to walk with someone from Toronto. I made provisional plans to do a couple of hikes with a guide and to meet up with the “Slow and Steady Hikers” group out of Calgary.

The airport was strange – so quiet, and so speedy and efficient. I felt guilty taking my mask off in the fairly busy departure lounge to quickly eat some lunch. As we boarded we were given an alcohol wipe to clean down our seat and tray. On the flight, I had a window seat with an empty seat next to me, but the flight was about 90% full. The stewards twice passed out water bottles and a small package of biscuits wrapped in a paper towel, which was the only food service.

Luggage pick up, getting a car rental and driving to the hotel were all fairly normal. The hotel pool was still open, but no hot tub, no breakfast, and no room service. I went to a supermarket and filled the fridge with milk, juice, cereal and hiking snacks. A takeout Indian lasted for three meals. Other times I ate out on patios. It was actually OK to not have anyone make my bed or tidy my room. Halfway through the trip I left my garbage and recycling out for emptying, and had a change of towels delivered.

12th September: First Hike Day. West Wind Pass and part of Windtower, 8km distance, 590m of ascent

There was a warning about a bear at the trailhead, so I was pleased I had my bear spray on my belt! The path as far as the pass was a relatively easy ascent through woods with a fair number of other hikers around, so it felt safe. There were great views from the pass. I hoped to continue up to the peak of Windtower, but I was meeting my guide at 6:30 and I ran out of time. To be honest, I also ran out of energy and nerve. After the pass, there were far fewer people. The trail was indistinct and I got a little lost as I scrambled over some craggy rock bands. There was a nice fairly level path that paralleled the Spray Lakes. Eventually, the path takes a left turn. The guides say that the path becomes a fairly steep scramble with scree and no one clear route to the summit. At this point, I turned back.

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That evening I met Bob, who had agreed to be my guide for a couple of hikes, in the Georgetown Inn. We had some good beer and fish and chips and agreed to hike Wasooch Ridge the next day.

13th September, Wasooch Ridge. 11.7km, 750m ascent

Hiked up through woods to a long narrow trail, sometimes quite exposed with major drop-offs on both sides. We got 80% of the way along the ridge before the trail became too difficult as scrambling was needed on a steep slope. California wildfires reduced the visibility.

14th September Tent Ridge (out and back, not loop) 13 km, 853m

The trail began with a level section through woods. The ridge appeared as the woods thinned out. We did a diagonal traverse on a rough scree slope to gain the bottom of the ridge. The ridge trail was narrower and even more exposed than on Wasooch, and it seemed to go on forever. In places, it was like Striding Edge on Helvellyn, but with a larger drop on each side. There is a possibility of doing a loop trail here, but that involves starting at the other side of the ridge, as there is a difficult section that is better ascended than descended. Bob felt that this was outside of the scope of practice as an ACMG Hiking (or apprentice) Guide, so I never found out if my hiking would have been up to it.

This is probably the hike I would most like to do again, in better weather with greater visibility.

15th September City walks in Canmore: Policeman’s Creek, Bow Trail, Quarry Lake, Grassi Lakes. 15 km 160m

After three fairly hard hiking days, I took a rest and wandered around Canmore. The visibility was not great. The first picture shows larches beside Quarry Lake. In the centre, the Smith-Dorien trail passes between Rundle on the right and Ha Ling on the left. On the 17th I hiked to the top of Ha Ling and then walked along the ridge to Miner’s Peak, the next summit to the left. Late in the afternoon, I explored the Grassi Lakes, hiking down a steep trail from the reservoir. The water was incredibly clear and the colour really was the amazing turquoise you see in the pictures.

16th September Grotto Canyon 9km 466 m

This was my least favourite hike. The skies were still cloudy so it seemed like a waste to go up anything so I walked along the canyon floor till it was blocked by large stones after 4.5km and returned. I was uncomfortable trapped within the canyon walls (especially when for a while I thought there was a bear blocking my exit! It was moderately interesting to see climbers on the canyon walls and a small faded pictograph, and it was fun to contribute to the Inukshuk Garden, but this is the hike I am least likely to do again.

17th September Ha Ling and MIners Peak 9km 810m

This is the classic “tourist” hike near Canmore. The summit of Ha Ling dominates the town of Canmore. The trail was closed for a couple of years to build a new path. The weather had improved a bit, so I planned to spend the whole day enjoying and exploring the mountain.

The new path is amazing! It is very carefully constructed. Where the rocks might be slippery, footprints have been carved into them. Some of the steep scree slopes before the pass have “floating staircases” made of timber held roughly in place with chains. However, it is also a steady slog up through the woods, with occasional views of the east end of Mount Rundle. That hike was on my wish list, but the last section involves some scrambling at high altitude with some steep cliffs around if you get lost. I used my binoculars to watch a solo hiker do a relatively easy section but I could see difficult parts as well. In the end, I never hiked Rundle.

Eventually the trail comes to a pass, with a great view down to Canmore. Go left and you get to Ha Ling, go right and you go to Miner’s Peak. I went left first. There were lots of people, all choosing different routes as they tried to find the easiest wat to scramble to the summit. The trail was so clear and well-marked before, it took a while to get used to just heading upwards and in the right general direction by any route you could find. I found a quiet spot along the edge of the mountain and had lunch, before walking along the rim to Miner’s Peak, I strongly recommend this walk as it is very exposed but moistly easy hiking until the last 100 yards to the summit, which involves a bit of scrambling. Even if you do not make it to the top, the walk, and the view back to Ha Ling, are very worthwhile.

18th September Banff: Johnson Lake, Bow Falls 11km, 0 m

Another fairly restful day. Johnson Lake was quite tranquil. Banff was bustling, despite Covid. The shops all had hand sanitizer and insisted on mask wearing. One store even took my temperature. Did a pretty walk along the Bow River to a lookout over the Bow Falls. Do not remember doing that on previous visits.

19 September Chester Lake 10km 500m

This was a very popular hike, with so many people on the trail that I often kept my mask on. The path goes through woods then opens up into a meadow with great views of Chester Peak. I took the path around the lake, and then found a less busy path back to the parking lot.

20th September South Pocaterra Ridge 10km, 692 m

At last, a really clear and sunny day, and arrangements to hike with a group worked out! However, when I got to the trailhead parking lot, there were maybe a hundred cars parked and a couple of dozen more along the road. How would I find my group? I wandered to the trailhead, looking for people who were in a group but socially distancing as if they were strangers, and quickly met the group. Strangely, none of them had ever hiked the route before!

It was a fantastic hike, beginning with a gentle ascent through larch forests, then coming to the exposed south side of the ridge. It was a steady trudge up the slope following many other hikers, to a small rocky summit with spectacular views in all directions. There was a long ridge extending to the north, which would make an amazing hike for another day, and looking back we could see the larch trees in fall colour and the parking lot. A great last hike of the trip!

21st Sept Stroll in Canmore and visit to Cochrane on way to Calgary Airport 6km 0 m

I had returned my can of bear spray to my guide, so I did not feel safe doing any proper hiking today. Has a nice walk around Canmore, finishing off bits of the very scenic Postman’s Creek trail which I had not done previously. On the drive back I stopped in the historic town of Cochrane and had celebratory ice cream.

I wish I had been a bit fitter before I set off. the cancellation of my original plans, the closure of coffee shops so there was no destination to cycle to, and the closure of gyms meant I was not motivated enough to get in shape.

Overall, it was a great hiking trip. It was a shame not to have anyone to share the experience with, so the next best thing is to look at the photos again and share them with my friends on the Internnet.

Stay safe, and I hope we can all hike together next year!

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