Coast to Coast Hike Part 2 – East Half

304 kms from St Bees to Robin Hood’s Bay, September 2019

(This is the link for the first part )

Day 9: 25th September 2019: Keld to Reeth. 18.5 km. 1,600 ft of ascent. Stay at the Buck Inn, a cozy old pub.

Francis and I took the route which goes through lead mining country. We were exactly on time to meet Philip until we took a wrong turn, but we soon saw him watching for us in a bright orange/red cagoule. He explained a lot of the lead mining history and technology of the area, then picked up his car to drive into Reeth, while Francis and I continued on foot.

Stayed at The Buck Inn. a nice old pub in the small market town. Had several beers by the cozy fire, put the world to rights, and remembered old times. A great evening, and no serious hiking to do tomorrow.

Planning Part 4:  Luggage Transfer
There are a couple of companies that do luggage transfers for the Coast to Coast. I used Sherpa Van. other people used Packhorse. The main difference seems to be that with Packhorse, you pay them for your accommodation in advance and they settle up with each place you stay. With Sherpa Van you are on your own to pay each hotel or BnB. Sherpa worked out well. They have a great website which lists all the accommodation along the way that they work with. You choose how far you want to hike each day and then pick the inn or BnB in that town. Sherpa then books your room. It took them a few days to make all the bookings, and a couple of places needed adjustments as the room I asked for was not available, even booking about six months in advance. All the reservartions worked out fine. Each morning I left my bag in the hotel lobby about 8 a.m, with a label saying wqhere I would be that evening. Every day the bag was delivered by 3:30. On the days when I had a short hike, I kept a pair of sandals in my day pack so I could at least change out of my boots while waiting for the pack. The luggage transfer meant that each day I only had to carry the clothes and food for that day. For example, I bought three rain jackets, a light one for days I did not expect rain, a long, heavy lined ones for days I knew I would be hiking in the rain, and one in between. Each evenoing I would check the forecast and decide which jacket to carry in my day pack.

Day 10: 26th September 2019 Rest Day in Reeth. About15 km of hiking with 250m of ascent.

Today (Thurs) Francis, Philip and I did a little walk along the River Swale. Ben arrived at 11:30 just in time for a coffee before Francis had to take a taxi to Darlington Station at noon.

The new threesome set off on a typical Philip hike which included bushwacking through a grouse moor in the rain, traversing a bit of bog, finding that recent floods had wiped out a footbridge we needed and done a lot of other damage. All good fun, especially once the rain stopped. We had several cups of tea and some cake and now they are all off and I think all the coast to coasters I know are a day ahead of me. There is talk Philip and or Ben may meet me again towards the end which would be nice.

Short hike tomorrow into the large town of Richmond Need a cash machine for one thing.”

Day 11: 27th September 2019: Reeth to Richmond. 20.0 km. 1,500 ft of ascent. Stayed at the Old Brewery Guest House.

“Very short day today, 5 hrs and 12 miles to Richmond. Probably the only town on the C2C Meg would consider worth visiting, sort of a cross between Settle and Harrogate on a hill with a castle. Sadly it’s been raining heavily since noon today. Did not see anyone walking in my direction all day.

Checked in at a nice guest house where they are doing a batch of laundry for me. Went to the bank and got some money. Been looking forward to a chip buttie and had one for lunch here but it was so bad I threw half of it away. Found a decent pub with good local beer and WiFi. May stay until my phone battery dies…

Going to see a play called “All Hands on Deck”. All I know is that it is on tonight at Georgian Theatre Royal, which was built in 1788.

Not a long hike tomorrow but the weather is mostly rain for the next few days…”

*A church along the way which leaves out supplies for C2C walkers to pick up and in return for a donation*

*I can recommend this Tandoori Restaurant in Richmond. Nice change from pub food!*

Day 12: 28th September 2019: Richmond to Danby Whiske. 22.4 km. 0 ft of ascent. Stayed at the inglenook BnB.

“Had a nice Indian with a view of Richmond last night, then went to the very small Georgian Theatre.

Fairly boring flat walk over fields and beside streams with a long section on a minor road at the end.

Wainwright admitted that this boring section just joins the Yorkshire Dales to the North York Moors and he recommended getting it all done in one long day, but I am doing what many people do and making two shorter days of it. The wireless earbuds are useful!

*Coast to Coast route is a muddy path in a field*

It began cold and grey but unexpectedly the sun came out and it never rained despite the forecast. 100% chance of rain tomorrow but I have lost faith in the forecast!”

This was the worst day of the hike. Mostly it was walking along or through fields, or on minor roads, flat and boring with no views and no company. The only purpose of the hike was to get from A to B. Danby Whiske is not an attractive village. The pub was modern and charmless, the publican gruff. However, my host at the BnB was charming. She has one room which she only lets out to Coast to Coasters. I think she does the BnB business as much for the company as for the money.

*The landlady of the Inglenook looks a bit like her dog!*

Day 13: 29th September 2019: Danby Whiske to Osmotherly. 16 km. 1,000 ft of ascent. Stay at Three Tuns, an historic inn.

“In much better spirits today despite a 5 hr walk in the rain.

Last night I met three Americans, a couple from Seattle who are doing the walk very slowly and a New Yorker making his second attempt after an Achilles injury last time.

The pub landlord was a bit glum but the beer was good and the chicken in leek sauce was great. Shame I followed it with the worst Sticky Toffee Pudding ever!

The landlady did the C2C to celebrate her 50th. She has been cycling in Vietnam and her daughter was crew on the cruise ship which did the Northwest Passage. Also, she had a cute dog. OK, I do miss Tess a bit).

Today, the weather was mild and it was only “mizzling” a little rain. The path was across muddy fields with a railway and a divided highway to cross for interest. Made good progress listening to a John Grisham novel. Overtook the American couple. Met the New Yorker having his sandwiches outside a coffee shop as the rain got serious. Once he had finished he joined me for hot drinks inside. Had a slice of lemon and elderflower cake which was great. Was pleasantly surprised to find less than an hour to go. Hiked with the New Yorker until we came to his pub. Mine was a little further on. Osmotherly is a very pretty three pub village. Hope it stops raining so I can explore. If not, all the pubs look nice and all sell real ale!

Tomorrow is a long (20 mile) hike with some hills at the beginning. The last 5 miles or so are on an abandoned railway track which makes either for a quick level hike with simple navigation, or a long boring trudge on a hard and featureless surface, depending on your attitude.

The forecast, for what it may be worth, is sunny intervals until 4 pm when it starts to rain and continues all evening. So an early brisk start seems a good idea!”

-Email to Philip:

“Made it to the Three Tuns on Osmotherly where I have the ultimate lock-in. They do BnB but I am the only guest. They close after lunch on Sunday. So I have the front door key and am the only person anywhere in the pub tonight! I had a little sample of Hobgoblin but I do not think there is anything to stop me from inviting a dozen people over and serving drinks until the barrels and optics run out! But I have a 20-mile hike tomorrow so I better not!”

*Wet guy in red waterproof in green field*

Day 14: 30th September 2019: Osmotherly to Blakely Ridge. 32 km. 1,000 ft of ascent. Stayed at The Lion Inn, a large old coaching inn.

“I knew today would be challenging – 22 miles, 3,000 ft of ascent, 8 hrs hiking time, with rain forecast for 4 PM.

In fact, it was very rewarding with great views and sunshine until 2 pm, when it got cloudy but did not rain. Hiked all day with Frankie from Long Island, New York. Quickly got up onto a ridge on the moors with great views to Hartlepool and the North Sea. The path was well made and not muddy but kept on descending about 500ft then climbing back. After that happened six times we were glad to follow the old train route and pleased to see our hotel on the horizon. Arrived at 5 p.m. having set of at 8 a.m..

Probably the second-best day of the hike, after St Sunday Crag.

Showers with a high of 8 tomorrow but it’s only a 5 hr hike downhill!”

*Up and down and up again – but on a good paved path*

*Frankie from New York on the rail bed section*

The Beer Challenge
England is known for its beer, ideally sold as "Real Ale" from a handpump and served at the temperature of an unheated underground cellar. My "Beer Challenge" is to drink a different pint of beer every night. I suggest you always to ask for the local bitter, and avoid the big national brands (Like Tetley's, Marson's) until you find you have no local choices. I managed to succeed, and had many great pints along the way, some old friends and some new ones.

Day 15, 1st October 2019: Blakely Ridge to Grosmont. 22.5 km, 1,500 ft of ascent. Stayed at Lion Inn, a large old coaching inn.

“This was meant to be an easy day, five hours hiking slowly downhill to Grosmont, but it did not begin like that.

The weather forecast was for rain so I enjoyed and lingered over yet another full English breakfast. My NY buddy had woken early and headed out. As I put my outdoor clothes on in the mud room I could hear the rain and wind battering and shaking the outside door.

I went out into a strong windy rain. Walked in the rain on small roads and cart tracks all by myself for 3.5 hours. Fortunately, I had a Grisham novel playing thru my wireless earbuds (thanks, Grant and Kate).

The rain eased as I descended into Glaisdale but I was cold and wet. The waterproof socks did not seem to be working any more. Neither the store nor the tea shop was open.

Pressed on and was pleased to find the Arncliffe Arms was open and serving lunch. Went in and found my NY friend chatting to a Coast to Coaster from London. We had hot drinks and I ate a baked potato with bacon and brie which was delicious.

One of the best meals of the trip – or maybe I was just glad to be out of the cold and wet!

By the time we were finished the rain was almost gone and the wind had died down. Had a pleasant couple of hours wandering thru the Esk Valley to Grosmont.

Staying in a huge mansion of a BnB from which I can watch the steam trains.

Day 16, 2nd October 2019: Grosmont to Robin Hood’s Bay. 25 km, 2,000 ft of ascent. Stayed at Bramblewick, a quaint BnB above an upmarket seafood restaurant.

What an end to the trip! Wainwright kept a few goodies to finish. Began cool crisp and sunny as I left Grosmont. Saw a milkman doing deliveries, a blast from the past.

Walked up the road onto some open moors. Eventually, the sea and Whitby came into sight, but then the path ducked south into woodland beside a stream with nice waterfalls.

Headed back north and the path cut between fairly big roads by crossing confusing peat bogs. Thought we were done with that nonsense. The guy from London (Luce) got his feet wet and was not happy.

Went thru a small village then cut thru a caravan site and gained the clifftop. Grey and windy, impressive but bleak. After a couple of hours, the incredibly quaint village of Robin Hoods Bay came into view. My BnB is right at the bottom which is nice but it will be a long hard drag to get my wheelie bag back up to the bus stop.

Found the Londoner (Luce) again and we had a cup of tea, then I checked in, got out of my boots and went down to the sea. Had a paddle but no swim. Threw a west coast stone into the east coast water.

Bumped into the guy from NYC (Frankie). Bought him a pint in the Wainwright bar, sitting by coal fire with a sea view.

He was intrigued by the idea of a chip butty (a chip sandwich) so we looked at the guide and found a good chippie just round the corner. Ordered him a butty and fish n chips for me. No seats so we got our food and found a bench in the alley beside the chippie. They were good and he was impressed.

All three of us feel the same way. It was a great but tough walk with very varied weather and scenery. We were glad we made it without incident. There is a weird mix of “Thank God it is over” and “It was such a great break from everything else in life, and it took so much time and attention it’s a shame it has to end”, It will be weird to leave the wild remote countryside for our respective cities.”

*Walking up the main street of Robin Hood’s Bay, leaving the sea and the Coast to Coast hike behind*

Epilogue:

It has now been over a year since I complete the hike. so what do I think about it now?

Firstly, I am really glad that I had the opportunity to do it. The time, the money, the health, the freedom from other commitments were all great gifts.

The achievement is intensely personal. There is no badge, no certificate, no external recognition. I was so pleased with myself when I turned up in a place like Patterdale or Reeth or Osmotherly and thought: “I actually walked here from St Bees”. But for everyone around me, it was either unimportant or, in the case of the landladies I stayed with, just normal. In the Lake District, I felt so superior to people who were just doing a circuit and then returning to the place they started off from, then I felt guilty about feeling superior. On the last stretch of the coastal cliff, there were dozens of walkers, people just out for a short hike from the nearest car park, I wanted some recognition that I was special, somehow better than them, if only in my own mind.

Would I do it again? No, but only because I do not like repeating things, there is too much of the world to discover. If pressed, I might do it in the other direction.

I would love to do something similar in the future, but the C2C is genuinely unique. By comparison, the great hikes in the USA are way too long, and some (like the Appalachian Trail) seem very boring. Some version of the Camino is possible, but not the normal and over-popular version. A friend (Luce) did the Southern Upland Way and it suited him but it seems much bleaker, less pretty and involves backpacking. I enjoyed the W hike in Patagonia which was somewhat similar in terms of difficulty but much shorter. At present, the Alta Via 1 in the Italian Dolomites is my preferred post-Covid option, but that involves some hard climbs and descents. Frankie is thinking of the Tour De Mont Blanc, but that has some long stretches and requires backpacking.

I hope you found this useful and inspiring , or at least entertaining as an armchair traveler. Bon Voyage!

John Oyston, Toronto, December 2020

Dr John's Blog

"Our lives begin to end the day we become silent about things that matter" - Martin Luther King, Jr.

Coast to Coast Hike Part 2 – East Half